In the first week of my first every
journey to Baghdad, I went to the local market to do some grocery shopping with
my cousin Amina. I’ve been used to big grocery stores with beautifully packaged
goods my whole life, so I wanted to see how Iraqi’s grocery shop. This was no
Safeway, but I loved it.
‘How much are
the bananas?’ Amina asked one of the fruit vendors. ‘250 (dinars)’ he replied.
‘That’s too much, give it to me for 200’ she responded. ‘No, No, No what are you
talking about, 250 I said’ he insisted. I told her to just buy the damn
banana’s, I wasn’t used to this ongoing haggling, I was getting tired cause I
was carrying around a large bottle of Pepsi - or Bibsi as they like to call it
in Iraq. She told me to not to intervene. He ended up selling her the banana’s
for 200 dinars. ‘Iman, you don’t understand, this is how we shop here, we don’t
just accept the price that they say, they will always give you a better deal if
you just annoy them enough’ she told me on the way out of the market.
As we stopped
to cross the street, I turned to take a good look at Amina. I wanted to remember
this. I wanted to walk the walk that Amina takes every day and try to take
pleasure – like she did - in this simple trip. It basically was the only contact
with the outside world that Amina ever really had. So I did. I paid attention to
every fine detail, every crack in the pavement, every tired face surrounding me.
I tried to remember the little children on the street running around playing,
and then I noticed a little boy with what seemed to me to be a wooden shopping
cart. He came running and calling ‘Amina…..Aminaaaa, wait for me’. I asked her
what was going on; she told me that it’s Ahmed.
Ahmed is the
little eight year old boy that helps her with the shopping load when she goes to
the market. I noticed a few boys in the market carrying these wooden shopping
carts, but I guess Amina was Ahmed’s exclusive customer. As he got closer I
could see his beautiful brown eyes and his striking features. I couldn’t help
notice the huge hole in his tattered and filthy t-shirt. He didn’t waste a
second, he grabbed the plastic bags in Amina’s hands and put them in the cart,
and then he came towards me to grab the Pepsi bottle that I was carrying. I got
a little worried considering the bottle was a lot larger than little Ahmed. But
he continued and carried the bottle into the cart, and started to pull the cart
towards the direction of Amina’s house.
I was now
focusing on Ahmed, not the palm trees, or the other children in the street. I
just couldn’t take my eyes off this tiny boy with his dusty hair and soiled
feet. We walked a few minutes and we passed one of the huge garbage dumps on the
street. Baghdad is full of garbage dumps. I guess the coalition forces and Iraqi
governing council forgot about cleaning residential neighborhoods. This is
garbage that has been piled up for months. Rats, snakes and other filthy
creatures now live comfortably in these garbage dwellings. Amina pointed out to
me that at this particular garbage dump lived Ahmed’s family. I couldn’t really
process what Amina was saying. I first looked to see if there was some sort of a
home near the garbage dump, but there wasn’t, I did however notice an older
woman, in a black abaya sitting in the middle and on top of this garbage dump.
She looked like she was possibly cooking up a meal of some sort. I couldn’t see
her face, I then saw a little girl, maybe two years old running around playing
with the garbage.
I instantly
nudged Amina. ‘Amina, who’s that little girl?’, ‘that’s his little sister’ she
replied. I turned away, and couldn’t focus on anything anymore. I felt numb.
What did she mean that was his house, do they sleep and eat there? How? I turned
to Amina again. ‘What do u mean it’s their house, do they live there?’ ‘Yes’ she
responded casually.
We walked on
towards my Aunts house. We arrived and Ahmed dropped us off at the door, and
helped with the unpacking of the groceries. I reached into my pocket and gave
him whatever I found. He looked up at me, with a slightly excited demeanor and
said ‘Shukran Khala’. I still will never forget him. This young beautiful boy,
who lives in a garbage dump. Literally. His whole future ahead of him doesn’t
look so bright to most people, but he still has the courage to walk around with
a smile. Happy to be carrying people’s groceries.
I
saw Ahmed a few times after our first meeting, and always a beautiful smile on
his face. I pray that Ahmed and his family are in good health and in good
spirits.